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Throughout the ages, people have experimented with treatments intended to enhance their appearance and slow the aging process. From the early Egyptian’s use of kohl and mineral pigments to tightly drawn corsets of the Victorian era, women have endured much in the name of youth and beauty. In our modern world, we are fortunate to be able to turn to technology for our fountain of youth, and one of the most important innovations to have sprung from this well of technological advances is the use of microcurrent.

Microcurrent is truly the “diamond in the rough” when it comes to wellness and antiaging. Its use in aesthetics has existed since the late 70’s, and like many good things, has come full circle and is now in full bloom in the eyes of today’s aestheticians.

Microcurrent is a low level of electrical current that mirrors the body’s own natural current, subsensory in most cases. It’s proven and accepted properties, and potential range of applications from wound healing, muscle rehabilitation, macular degeneration, to lymphodema continue to assist medical practitioners with amazing results. Although microcurrent is credited by hundreds of medical studies, we must stay focused on how these studies and this technology can benefit and support our mission of beautifying the skin.

The intended use for microcurrent in aesthetics is to allow the aesthetician a powerful and effective tool to aid in the battle of anti-aging by diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve the texture and appearance of the skin, and reducing the overall visual appearance of aging.

Most microcurrent applications and results, whether they are medical or aesthetic, rely on the same mechanisms of action. Even without defining each in detail, the list is very impressive, and the underlying principles logical.

• Increased circulatory benefits: blood and lymph
• Muscle re-education
• product penetration
• Increased natural production of collagen and elastin
• Increase in mitochondria activity, ATP (adenosine tri phosphate)
• Dispersion of hardened collagen

How does microcurrent in aesthetics work?

The noted principal microcurrent mechanisms of action occur simultaneously and harmoniously during a typical 45-minute microcurrent facial treatment. One attribute is not more important than another, as they work as a team with the common purpose of creating a healthier more youthful appearance.

Firstly TONING:

Muscle re-education is most related to the term “facial toning”. There are 32 different muscles of the face that are manipulated during the average microcurrent facial treatment.

Secondly ATP work: ATP (adenosine triphosphate) molecules are the storage and distribution vehicles for energy in the body.

What is ATP? 

Short for Adenosine Triphosphate, ATP is an energy-rich organic molecule that occurs naturally in the body. It is the main carrier of the energy required for countless cellular activities in all living things, and it also plays a pivotal role in intracellular communication1. Stimulating the skin’s metabolism, ATP assists with wrinkle reduction, moisture retention and skin rejuvenation, promoting a smooth, radiant, balanced complexion. It is also valued by skincare formulators for its soothing and protective properties. 

Aside from muscle re-education and massive increases in ATP levels, microcurrent has other proven benefits for aesthetic applications. Dr. Chi, Director of the University of Washington Department of Pathology, performed clinical studies using Bio-Therapeutic’s micro-current device and notes, “The fact that this technology works in harmony with the body is evident. Examination of skin tissue treated with microcurrent showed a 45% increase in the number of elastin fibers in the dermis, and the length of the fibers on average doubled. The collagen thickness in the connective tissue increased 10%, and the number of blood vessels increased by 35%. The application of microcurrent to skin and tissue produced a firmer and tighter feeling on the skin surface.”

Many of the studies detailing the massive increase in speed regarding wound healing refer to ATP as one of the attributing factors. The other attributing factor is an increase in blood circulation. Blood circulation has everything to do with the function, condition, color and over all health of our skin, as well as underlying tissue. Dr. Chi’s 2003 study performed at the University of Washington further notes a 35% increases in blood circulation in tissue treated with microcurrent.

LOVE THIS: BLOOD CIRCULATION IS KEY FOR HEALTHY SKIN!

By the time we are 50 we have 25% less circulation.

Combine this with the Osmosis Power house:

• Rescue: Boost Immunity of the skin, Calm Inflammation, Clears Acne, Heals Rosacea, Reduces the appearance of enlarged pores
• Renew; Epidermal remodelling, Stimulates Collagen, Increase nutrient supply, reduces inflammation
• Stem Factor: Growth and repair of damaged cells, stimulates collagen, accelerates  skin rejuvenation, promotes younger, clearer skin
• Catalyst: Repairs DNA damage, rebuilds collagen, pigment control and normalization, heals the skin, provides antioxidant protection.

Your skin is going to be working in perfect harmony!

My microcurrent facial is aptly named Elevate and Glow and details can be found here

I am literally blown away by this product. I always had a feeling it was going to impress as i had read so much press on it, but sometimes there are so many products especially in skincare that just don’t stack up to all their hype. But this certainly does for me.

I think its also important to understand where you are on skin and diet and your age, health etc too to determine what results you may see. I am 42, had early menopause, have a good skincare routine (luckily have lots of skincare gadgets also at my disposal. I also have a relatively good diet. And I try to exercise a few times a week.

My main concern since my 40’s has been the ageing process and it has been a battle to keep lines at bay. I would say crows feet, neck and chest are my worst areas so i really wanted to keep an eye on this whilst i started my 90 day course of Skinade. During this time i have also limited my at home facial devices so i can clearly see if Skinade is the main factor in making a difference to my skin. So with all that in mind, collagen production declining year on year, i think trying an internal approach to stimulating collagen would be a great idea!

FACT: WE LOSE 1.5% OF COLLAGEN A YEAR FROM OUR MID TWENTIES

So Week 1:

After day 5, At this point i was only checking my face for visible signs, and it felt much softer. The hydration was kicking in.

Day 10: My skin is a lot clearer and brighter. My nails are super strong. My hair seems to have become much thicker. My toe nails are glossier and my body is feeling much less dry. Dry skin has been a real issue since being in my 40’s (menopause and loss of collagen being the culprit, arghh!) and if people come to me in clinic they will know i am not a big believer in moisturisers, so i always had a similar mentality to my body, if i keep smothering it in moisture it will always crave moisture and i will never really address the route of the dryness – lack of collagen.

Day 14: My whole body skin colour has changed. In the shower i see my legs are a great colour (this isn’t a tan!) its a real healthy glow, its quite weird seeing lovely healthy skin. I guess sometimes we get used to the colour of our skin but great to see it looking good, like it did in my 20’s!

FACT: COLLAGEN ACCOUNTS FOR 75% OF YOUTHFUL SKIN.

DAY 21: My makeup is looking super glossy (again hydration is ramping up) and weirdly i think my lips are looking plumper.

So super happy with the results so far, i will track progress and report back after another month.

x

Step into the world of AHA’s and BHA’s. You have probably seen these labels infiltrate skincare products, but what are they all about, and is it worth giving them a go?

AHAs (alpha hydroxy acid) and BHAs (beta hydroxy acid) are types of hydroxy acids. All very sciency i know, but what do they do?

AHAs are water-soluble acids made from sugary fruits. They help peel away the surface of your skin so that new, more evenly pigmented skin cells may generate and take their place. After use, you’ll likely notice that your skin is smoother to the touch.

On the other hand, BHAs are oil-soluble. Unlike AHAs, BHAs can get deeper into the pores to remove dead skin cells and excess sebum.

AHA’s are best for normal to dry skin or sun damaged skin. Whilst BHA’s are best for normal to oily skins or breakout prone skin. It can also help calm irritation and redness, so sometimes can be helpful for rosacea sufferers.

So how do we know what’s in our skincare?

Lots of skincare products are now labelled with AHA or BHA, but if they just name the acid (also check the ingredient list) here’s what to look for:

• AHA’s: Glycolic, Citric, Mandelic, Malic, Tartaric and Lactic.
  They exfoliate the skin, stimulate collagen. These are your anti-ageing acids!
• BHA’s: Salicylic. Also an exfoliant but treats breakouts and helps manage keratosis pilaris and other conditions that involve blocked or clogged pores.

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), such as salicylic acid, are very similar to AHAs except for difference in their solubility.

AHAs are water soluble and do not penetrate very deep into the skin of the person, while BHAs are oil soluble and often do penetrate much deeper into the skin, even past the oil barrier of the face

The structure of the BHA allows them to penetrate into the skin through sebaceous follicles, making it great for people with oily skin and open comedones.

So my tips for choosing your skincare:

• don’t be scared of glycolics, lots of my clients who have dry skin feel like a glycolic would be too harsh…it won’t be, it is going to help bind moisture and improve healthy collagen production. But like retinol, introduce slowly if your skin is sensitive.
• In regards to your skincare routine I don’t believe layering aha’s and bha’s is a good idea as it can cause irritation, unless the product has been specifically designed with the 2 acids together in one bottle.
• But you could sweep a glycolic around the drier areas of skin or like me when you want to aid in collagen production, across forehead, then use your BHA on your more oily areas, i use a salicylic pad here. Alternatively use your BHA in the morn and the AHA at night. Or alternate each day. Skincare is about finding what works for your skin, try different ways.
• Using acids with retinol. I personally don’t think you should be layering 2 exfoliants at the same time, it can definately cause irritation and can disrupt your skin’s barrier and leave you inflamed and sensitive. I would advise your acid in the morning and retinol at night. OR you mix it up,

1.  Acids one night, retinoids the next,
2. Two nights of acids,third night retinoids
3. Two nights of retinoids, third night acids.
4. Acids one night, retinoids the next, and then a night off with just moisturiser.

• How often to exfoliate – 2 to 3 times a week. But if you do see you skin become patchy and flaky, stop for a week, you maybe causing you skin barrier function to be impaired and it needs time to recover, always worth having a hyaluronic acid serum to sooth and hydrate.
• If you exfoliate in your morning routine make sure you always apply spf.

Know the ingredients now that you need for your skin, remember glycolic is stronger than your lactic, but also check percentages, work your way up to higher strengths, your skin will adapt, but take it slow.

A couple of my go to products! A great introduction to the world of acids and retinols!

• BHA – Glo Complexion Pads
• 0.3% Medik8 Retinol

xx

I have always said that cleansing wipes are better than nothing but i am going to take that back. I actually think it is better to sleep in make-up than use a wipe….There i said it, the facialist who promotes the double cleanse technique daily has said you can sleep in make up!!!!

Well not quite…but if it means you may think twice about using your facial wipe, please read on!

I started to see a really big link between my clients who were suffering from breakouts and acne prone skin and the use of cleansing wipes. Clients who were suffering with their skin were not keen on trying new products because of the risk of making their skin worse…but at the same time they were coming to see me for the alternatives. So the position i take is throw the wipes away, and this is to everyone, even if you think your skin is in good nic…i think over time your skin will age…you need to get into good cleansing habits now. Clients and friends will always say to me that i have a good skin and i do truly believe its down to my mum who sent me for teenage Clarin’s facials regularly and i would always use a Clarin’s cleanser and toner from being about 14. It was instilled in me, my mum has fab skin too. So i do believe its important to educate our kids on skincare. If your skin feels good, you feel good. Its our biggest organ so we need to look after it.

When looking into this blog i came across a few good analogies..Mona Gohara, dermatologist described the process of cleansing with facial wipes, “the equivalent of swirling dirty toilet water around your bathroom”, or skipping the rinse cycle of your laundry, Cleansing agents are designed to break down debris within the pores, but it’s the rinsing action that actually removes it.” So it did astound me on the back of cleansing wipes it will often state that no rinsing is required…that seems totally absurd to me!

So cleansing wipes contain high levels of preservatives, alcohol and anti-bacterial agents to keep them usable.

These harsh synthetics are then rubbed vigorously into the skin, particularly around the delicate and extra-thin eye area.

As well as irritation, high levels of alcohol can also cause extreme dryness and premature ageing.

So not only are you putting harsh ingredients on to the skin, you are also moving your makeup around your skin, with no rinsing, your skin is not being properly cleaned and you’re then transferring that gunk to your pillow, which then gets transferred back to your skin, and on and on the cycle goes, leading to breakouts, blackheads, irritation, and, oh, did I mention wrinkles?

So know your ingredients. Paiskincare has listed these as the main culprits:

– Propylene Glycol and Dipropylene Glycol (irritants)
– Parabens
– Phenoxyethanol (irritant)
– 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1, 3-Dio (potent anti-microbial agent that carries the highest hazard rating, 8-10, on the skin.

So please if you want clearer skin, ditch the wipes. If you want more youthful skin, ditch the wipes, if you want to keep pigmentation at bay ditch the wipes.

For advise on cleansers drop me a message and i will happily recommend xx