Step into the world of AHA’s and BHA’s. You have probably seen these labels infiltrate skincare products, but what are they all about, and is it worth giving them a go?
AHAs (alpha hydroxy acid) and BHAs (beta hydroxy acid) are types of hydroxy acids. All very sciency i know, but what do they do?
AHAs are water-soluble acids made from sugary fruits. They help peel away the surface of your skin so that new, more evenly pigmented skin cells may generate and take their place. After use, you’ll likely notice that your skin is smoother to the touch.
On the other hand, BHAs are oil-soluble. Unlike AHAs, BHAs can get deeper into the pores to remove dead skin cells and excess sebum.
AHA’s are best for normal to dry skin or sun damaged skin. Whilst BHA’s are best for normal to oily skins or breakout prone skin. It can also help calm irritation and redness, so sometimes can be helpful for rosacea sufferers.
So how do we know what’s in our skincare?
Lots of skincare products are now labelled with AHA or BHA, but if they just name the acid (also check the ingredient list) here’s what to look for:
- AHA’s: Glycolic, Citric, Mandelic, Malic, Tartaric and Lactic.
They exfoliate the skin, stimulate collagen. These are your anti-ageing acids! - BHA’s: Salicylic. Also an exfoliant but treats breakouts and helps manage keratosis pilaris and other conditions that involve blocked or clogged pores.
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), such as salicylic acid, are very similar to AHAs except for difference in their solubility.
AHAs are water soluble and do not penetrate very deep into the skin of the person, while BHAs are oil soluble and often do penetrate much deeper into the skin, even past the oil barrier of the face
The structure of the BHA allows them to penetrate into the skin through sebaceous follicles, making it great for people with oily skin and open comedones.
So my tips for choosing your skincare:
- don’t be scared of glycolics, lots of my clients who have dry skin feel like a glycolic would be too harsh…it won’t be, it is going to help bind moisture and improve healthy collagen production. But like retinol, introduce slowly if your skin is sensitive.
- In regards to your skincare routine I don’t believe layering aha’s and bha’s is a good idea as it can cause irritation, unless the product has been specifically designed with the 2 acids together in one bottle.
- But you could sweep a glycolic around the drier areas of skin or like me when you want to aid in collagen production, across forehead, then use your BHA on your more oily areas, i use a salicylic pad here. Alternatively use your BHA in the morn and the AHA at night. Or alternate each day. Skincare is about finding what works for your skin, try different ways.
- Using acids with retinol. I personally don’t think you should be layering 2 exfoliants at the same time, it can definately cause irritation and can disrupt your skin’s barrier and leave you inflamed and sensitive. I would advise your acid in the morning and retinol at night. OR you mix it up,
- Acids one night, retinoids the next,
- Two nights of acids,third night retinoids
- Two nights of retinoids, third night acids.
- Acids one night, retinoids the next, and then a night off with just moisturiser.
- How often to exfoliate – 2 to 3 times a week. But if you do see you skin become patchy and flaky, stop for a week, you maybe causing you skin barrier function to be impaired and it needs time to recover, always worth having a hyaluronic acid serum to sooth and hydrate.
- If you exfoliate in your morning routine make sure you always apply spf.
Know the ingredients now that you need for your skin, remember glycolic is stronger than your lactic, but also check percentages, work your way up to higher strengths, your skin will adapt, but take it slow.
A couple of my go to products! A great introduction to the world of acids and retinols!
xx